Spiritual India

Its now a few days since the end of my time with the third group and I am having a vacation from the travel for two nights I am sitting on a breezy balcony looking up onto an old Maharaja Palace from which the resort I am at is based. This place called the Ananda in the Himalaya and is amazing. It might be be best property I have stayed at ever. You arrive and are given a string of prayer beads called a mala along with a cup of tea. The check in is done from a comfy couch. They explain all the included activities (yoga, meditation session, spiritual learning classes, cooking classes, short hikes, etc) and then you drive to your room on a golf cart passing a sunset viewing area, outdoor yoga amphitheater, the spa, pool, and restaurant. Once at the room they show you all the amenities inside and give you a white tunic and pants to wear around the property. This is not mandatory but nice and comfy and gives a break from doing travel laundry all the time! 

I rested most of my first day, then did a yoga nidra meditation session and had a scrumptious dinner. Yesterday I did a yoga class, went to a talk about yoga and meditation, and am now back at the room caught up on emails. I leave here tomorrow for the ashram, if I could afford to stay here for seven more nights I would cancel the ashram in a heartbeat!

On the 13th of Oct I joined the third tour group... What a beautiful treat all these people were. It was a small group, all ladies other than the tour leader. Except for one in her 60's we were all around the same age. The trip was called spiritual India, and took us to some of the most special pilgrimage sites in India in addition to some other fun places too! We shared many quite moments watching the sun rise over the golden temple in Amritsar, and the Ganges in Varanasi. We also joined in at the evening Hindu prayers (Aarti) along the ganges in Rishikesh and Varanasi. 

In Amritsar  We saw the closing of the border ceremony that happens each night between India and Pakistan... There are stands set up on both sides facing each other. The people gather on each side to watch the gates close and flags lower. on the Indian side before the ceremony the people have a dance party at the bottom of the stands. As the ceremony is happening the people yell back and fourth at each other saying that their country is best! 

Some other highlights were taking a ritual walk around the Tsuglagkhang Complex in McLeod Gange. This is where the Dali Lama lives and runs the Tibetan government in exile, the complex contains a temple, a museum, and residences for the monks. It is a beautiful forested walk strewn with prayer flags and stones carved with prayers and Bhudist  symbols. We saw everything from meditating monks, cows, monkeys, and countless prayer wheels along the way. In Rishikesh which is the Yoga hub here in India we got to experience a yoga class and then see the Aarti. Basically this is where Hindu devotees gather along the Ganges and chant and pray at sunset. It was very moving to sit in amongst the people clap along to the songs and take part in the offerings to the Ganges. Before the Aarti we bought those flower filled boats from a very sweet and very old lady along the river and set them off downstream. 

I also got to go for a motorbike ride to the top of a beautiful mountain with a view over Rishikesh (this is the yoga Mecca of India) and then later in the day we went river rafting, only small rapids but still kinda scary for me. In the slow bits we were able to get out and swim in the Ganges. In Rishikesh the Ganges is quite clean, and the sand is glittery with silver flecks that I am still finding in my shirt!!!

I was originally going to leave the group in Rishikesh since this is where my Ashram is and I was due to check in only a handful of days after the group passed through. Also, I had already been to the next destination Varanasi when I first arrived in India. But I was having such a great time seeing India with this group that they convinced me to stay on until Varanasi. Our tour leader worked very hard to arrange transportation for me back to Rishikesh, this ended up being my first solo overnight train experience in India! The decision to carry on was an amazing one. If only for the hour we spent on the Ganges at sunrise. As the most amazing sunrise came up through the distant clouds, we floated by the cremation Ghats where three cremations were going on. The local guide then pointed out two men that were on a boat with some flowers and an urn. He explained that not everyone can come to Varanasi to die and be cremated and that these men were bringing the ashes of a family member that had died somewhere else in India. We were all holding back tears when the man emersed the urn into the Ganges. Such a beautiful moment.

Finally I am updating!!!!

Hello All! 

Yes again I have been neglecting my updates!! Since the last time I wrote I had the opportunity to experience the backwaters of Kerala. We traveled from the beach town of Alleppey on a day train where we boarded a boat which cruised along a series of canals that are like roads in this town. We ended up in a small village where we found our home stays. The group was split among three homes. Myself and three other girls were in the home of a rice farmer Matthew (yes, many Indian Christians in this area and many have Christian names) and his family. They were very sweet and wonderful hosts. They have one teen aged daughter still living at home. She chatted with us in the evenings and taught us some Indian card and board games. In the day we went out onto a houseboat and just cruised all day long through the canals. 

From Alleppey we caught another train to Fort Kochin... This is essentially a tourist area in the middle of a big city. Even so, it was a treat to be there... Quite streets, nice shops, and some of the best food yet!the breakfasts in the cafes's here were out of this world. This is where the tour ended so it was also a place of good byes... 

I flew back to Delhi with four Aussie girls that were on the tour. In Delhi I treated myself to a night at a nice hotel near the airport and had four hours of spa treatments before transferring to the hotel where I met my third group.

Alive and Well in India

Hello All...

It has been a long time since I have written... Many apologies.

Right now I am writing you from Varkala. Varkala is a small beach town on the Arabian Sea. Since I have last written we travelled from Varanasi to Agra where we saw the Taj Mahal and the Agra Fort. Both of these sites were incredibly beautiful. Walking through the gate at the Taj is truly one of those moments were you get goose bumps... Even in the 34 degree sunshine! We were there for an hour or two before sunset and were able to see the Taj covered in the wonderful evening light.

From there we made our way across Rajasthan. We were introduced to Rajasthan by visiting a small village called Tordi. There we stayed in an old palace that was converted into a guesthouse. It was basic and beautiful at the same time and had wonderful rooftop views of the countryside. In the evening we hopped onto camel carts and rode to some sand dunes. You would never know it from e photos though. Monsoon has been very good to Rajasthan, delivering the most rain in over 20 years, so the dunes were coved in lush green grasses and shrubs. In Tordi I started to get bogged down with the cough I have been fighting since the trek and was not feeling well at all.

From Todi we went to Jaipur... Here I was quite sick so I stayed behind at the hotel while the rest of the group saw the city and the Amber Fort. The upside of being here for me was the availability of over the counter antibiotics which helped me start feeling better.

We then carried onto another small village called Nimage there was not much to see but the small villages are a welcome break from the cities. The cities are generally nice but one does have to overlook garbage, cows, dogs, and people everywhere. There is also a surprising lack of sidewalks which means we are usually walking alongside the nutty traffic. The awareness of where my feet are in relation to my surroundings has never been so heightened!

We then traveled further west to Jodpur. This is known as the blue city because the old quarter homes are all painted blue. I was looking forward to coming here for the photo opportunities but we didn't actually have a chance to walk the streets of the old city. I was able to snap some photos from afar while we were visiting the very impressive palace in the city.

We had one more stop in Rajasthan at Udaipur. This was the favorite of all the Rajastani cities. The city is set on a lake and has a bit more of a relaxed feel to it. We vistited a temple when the morning songs were happening. This was very beautiful.

I will sign off for now, but I have more to share about our adventures in the South so far. The next couple of day stake us to a home stay in the backwaters of Kerala so likely no Internet. I wont take so long for the next update though!!!

Hope all is well back home and thanks to those of you who Have dropped me the odd email :)

Namaste...

Sarah

Buh Bye Delhi...

I am writing from Varanasi! I arrived here this morning with the new group after an approximately 14 hour train ride. It was supposed to be 12 hours, but we were delayed on the tracks several times due to people protesting on the tracks. Our guide told us that the government here has recently raised the fuel prices, and the opposing party organized a national strike/protest to try and compel the government to reverse the price hikes. 

So we are spending the morning getting our selves clean and resting before we head out to Sarnath. Sarnath is said to be the place where the Buddha gave his first teaching after attaining enlightenment. Tomorrow morning is supposed to be a sunrise boat ride on the Ganges, but the guide is saying this may not be possible due to the high water level from Monsoon.  

And I even learned how to post a video...

Finally some photos!

I think I have figured it out! 

These are some shots from along the trails in Ladak and then some from one of the monistaries we visited.

Another Day in Delhi

I will start off by appologizing for getting so behind on my blogging. It was my intention to write a bit each day, but I think that was a bit to ambitious! Especially on the trek I was just a bit to tired to form competent sentences and organize photos!!! Upon arriving back "home" in Delhi I discovered that there were issues posting photos to this blog with the iPad interface. I will post some photos soon. Because of this I have posted a few pics on Facebook for now.

I will try to post more about the trek at a later time, but for now I will just fill you all in on what I have been up to since I have returned to Delhi.

I parted ways with the trekking group when Meera from the BnB came to pick me up from the hotel. She took me to get some medicine for the nasty cough I still have from being at altitude (I think!). I was able to relax and organize my things for a while before there was a knock on my door. Meera was there and told me that some other guests (a couple from Spain) had just returned from a journey to Rajasatan and had been fleeced in the markets. She told me that she was taking them shopping so they could get some good bargains and invited me to come along. In less that two hours I spent less that $30 Cad and had filled half the bag to send home! But the best part was meeting Sonia and Francesico they are a Spanish couple from Madrid who are presently living in London. Francesico is in the banking industry hence the move to London due to the economic situation in Spain.

The next day (which is yesterday for me now) they invited me to spend their last day in India with them. We set off after breakfast to see the Red Fort in old Delhi. This was a rather anticlimactic experience. It was good to have seen it, but I was surprised at the lack of care put into maintaining this world heritage site. From there we went to the markets of old Delhi. We hopped onto a cycle rickshaw. Yes, one very small Indian man peddled three big westerners around for two hours! And got paid less than $10 Cad! Geesh...

Old Delhi is absolute craziness. So many people, so many shops crammed into tiny spaces. The rickshaw driver brought us to the spice market area. He led us into a building where we made out way to the roof, but no before stepping over various people sleeping in the corridors. On the roof we had a view of old Delhi from above. We could see the masses of filth, people, rickshaws, and vehicles below. We could also see homes from up here too. Once we had seen enough, we came back down to street level, bought some spices and headed away.

We attempted to see a Mosque but Sonia was wearing shorts so no dice!

We then made our way to Raj Ghat. This is the place where Ghandi was cremated on the ghats of theYumana River. This was a beautiful monument, very simple and clean. Many Indians were here paying their respects.

Out next stop was over the other side of the river to Akshar Dham Temple. I think this was the most beautiful temple or religious building I have ever seen in my life. Sadly, there is no cameras allowed here I have no snaps to show you!

We then made a pit stop to find some food before heading back home.

It was a long, hot, and sticky day but such a pleasure to share it with Sonia and Francesico.

Today I am getting ready to head out for the day with a lady around my age from Australia. We will do some shopping to top off my bag which I will send home today and then go see some more sights!

Jouleh!!!

Jouleh...

This is the local word for hello, goodbye, thank-you, etc here in Ladak which is the province of India where we are in Leh. It has been several days since I have written last. 

Since arriving in Leh we spent three days acclimating to the altitude. In that time we have gone on various sort walks around the town and in the local hills mostly visiting various Buddhist monasteries. There are many Tibetans here, and as a result the Ladaki culture and form of Buddhism is influenced accordingly.  We had the opportunity at one of the monasteries to sit in on a group of monks while they did their daily prayers and were treated to butter tea in the monks kitchen afterwards. Butter tea is a traditional Tibetan  drink made from butter and salt... They also add a barley flour to it called tsampa. It forms a paste like dough and is one of the staples of a monks diet. The butter tea is certainly not the tastiest thing I have ever had but glad to have tried it. In the evenings we strolled through the streets of Leh, poked through the shops, and tried another traditional Tibetan dish momo's. Momo's are a dumpling, essentially the Tibetan equivalent of the Russian perogie, or  the Japanese gyoza. they are delicious! 

After our three days of acclimating we set off on the trek. 

To Leh and Back...

Hello all! 

I am now back in Delhi and have safely finished my trek through the mountians of Ladak. I have been trying to write a bit most days so you will start to see several postings come up over the next day or so. Seems I am having issues trying to post more photos here, so please bear with me while I try to work that out!

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Shortly after posting my last entry I left Meera's house (the bnb) with Meera, and the father daughter pair and headed to a local market. I was fortunate enough to be invited to join their shopping excursion. Meera left her family behind to spend the afternoon showing us the market. This was very helpful as she took us to the places where she shops for herself and her family. She gave us a really good feel for what we should be paying for things as to not be taken advantage of by the vendors. I did not end up purchasing much... Only a Indian top. This cost me 365 Rupee which works out to less that $6.50 Canadian! Rose and her father are only here for ten days so they were on a mission when it came to spending! It was great fun to watch them buy up the market and be in such awe of the prices compared to their prices back in the UK. 

Once the shopping was done for the day we found my hotel and bid the Brits goodbye. Meera said she would arrange for a SIM card and will have it waiting for me when I return at the end of my trek.

I found my room and met my new roommate for the next two weeks, Izzy. She is 22 and from the UK as well. It turns out the majority of the group are from England, one Aussie lady, and a Mother daughter (around my age) from Scotland. The ladies by far out number the gents on this trip, they are only three of the ten of us! 

After a short rest and clean up, the group of us walked to a local restaurant and had a great meal of Indian food. A complete meal including naan and soda water was less than $4!

We all hit the sac upon ur return from dinner due to our 01:30 hrs wake up call to make our 05:00 hrs flight to Leh. I was dreading this but actually awoke before the alarm and felt quite rested. It is a short flight, less then two hours, to Leh. The views from the plain were nothing short of spectacular!!!! Mountains as far as you could see, many looking like flowing streams of color from all the different exposed layers of earth. I did snap some shots from the plane, but I was in a middle seat so they are not great. The highlight of the flight had to be the approach into Leh. As the plane aligned it's self in the relatively narrow valley it seems like you could reach out the window and grab a handful of pebbles from the mountain side! The mountains here are very different from what we are accustom to in BC. They are pretty much completely without vegetation. I guess due to the altitude and climate here.  Leh is at approximately 3500 m.

Landed in Delhi! I am safe and sound at the most wonderful Bed and Breakfast... Meera at Saubhag Bed and Breakfast is a wonderfully generous and kind person. I actually wish I was staying a bit longer... I will be back here though between my two tours. The ride from the airport was almost everything I thought it would be. The only things that I expected that weren't there was the notorious awful smell I have been hearing so much about and traffic. Don't get me wrong, there defiantly are not to many rules on the road here that are practiced, but I guess because of the time of day not to many cars on the roads. Some of the highlights of my inaugural Indian car ride were... of course cows lounging on the highway (and I mean literally on the highway, not the shoulder), men lounging on the highway near their stopped vehicles, and many dogs being dodged two of which were clearly distracted by each others company (eh hem).

The B'n'B is in a nice residential Gated area there is a lovely father daughter pair in the room next to me. I am soon on my way to the hotel where I meet the tracking group. I will try to obtain a SIM card today...If not It's possible that this will be the last entry for two weeks as I am not sure how the Internet access will be! 

 

On the ground in Hong Kong

And the journey begins! After 40 mins standing at the Cathay Pacific ticketing counter, a very overwhelmed but incredibly sweet agent arranged to change my flight. So I am officially spending the night in Hong Kong. I think I will try my hand at riding their rail system into Kowloon where my hotel is located and then either wander the neighborhood or find my way to the Star Ferry which will take me to central Hong Kong. I am looking forward to finding some new food and maybe taking a few photos. 

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I am now safe on the ground in Hong Kong. In fact I am all tucked in bed and just taking some time to write before I fade away. As expected, the Hong Kong airport was very nice and easy to navigate. I was able to drop my big heavy bag of gear with a storage service and then found a taxi to my hotel in Kowloon (this is just across the harbor from central Hong Kong). I immediately found my way out of the hotel towards the water. It was almost 10 pm, a little hot, and very very humid! Everyone walking around with shiny faces... There is a beautiful walkway along the harbor that provides a wonderful view of the Hong Kong skyline across the water. I only brought my point and shoot camera with me tonight, should have brought the other one... There are many opportunities for night shots here. So after an hour or so of walking I found my self a huge bowl of prawn wonton noodle soup and a cup of tea. This city is very easy to be in, and English is absolutely everywhere. I am looking forward to exploring tomorrow before my evening flight to Delhi!

Ready to Walk the Jetway

As most of you know I am about to set off on the biggest travel adventures of my life this far. On Aug 30, 2012.... India here I come!

This has been many months of endless web searching for the right travel companies, itineraries, hotels, and of course shopping for much needed travel gear! This was my biggest weakness because I love internet shopping, but I think I came out okay... will only have to sell a few unnecessary things when I get home!

In the course of my research I came across many blogs and gathered countless tid bits of wisdom that have helped shape my plan and influenced what is in my bag. Hopefully this will serve me well! In effort to possibly help others on similar adventures, I will use this blog to talk about both gear, and the day to day travels of a thirty something female. But of course the main purpose of this will be to keep friends and family in the know as I go!

As of today my bags are as good as packed. I have managed to fit 85% of my gear into a 70L Sealine "Dry" backpack and the reamining few items I will carry on in my near empty Gregory Jade 60. I know this seems like a ton of stuff, especially if you have been hearing me rant about how I will be traveling so light... well you see many of the bulky items in the full bag are for my first two weeks of camping/trekking in the Himalaya. Once this is over I will be sending that gear via seamail home to Canada and carrying on with a half empty backpack.

Well, 17 more days until I fly Cathay Pacific for the first time and make my first trip all the way across the Pacific...

Stay tuned!